For more than 40 years, Caf茅 Polonez has been a pillar of Roncesvalles Avenue, serving up hearty Polish comfort food to a mix of locals, newcomers and returning regulars like Lauryn Bodde.
When Bodde travels with her mother and aunt from Windsor to 海角社区官网for 鈥渁 girls trip,鈥 one stop is non-negotiable: Caf茅 Polonez. Since 2017, they鈥檝e popped in to grab a bite three times a year.

Server Dmytro Peleshchuk, left, takes an order from Lauryn Bodde, her mother Michele Bodde, and Stephanie Moniz, who make a point of visiting Caf茅 Polonez whenever they鈥檙e in 海角社区官网from Windsor.
Nick Lachance 海角社区官网Star鈥淲e鈥檙e Ukrainian and this food speaks to our heritage, since Polish food is adjacent to what we have at home, like how we enjoy perogies every Christmas,鈥 says Bodde, just after she finished lunch with her family. Around them, empty dishes were scattered with potato pancake crumbs and tendrils of sour cream.
鈥淭his is such a cosy restaurant, with proper authentic food, and just being here reminds us of our relatives,鈥 she adds.

Caf茅 Polonez鈥檚 pierogis, firm and generously filled, are a standout dish at the family-run restaurant in Toronto鈥檚 Roncesvalles neighbourhood.
Nick Lachance 海角社区官网StarCaf茅 Polonez is one of the few Polish restaurants dotting an area of 海角社区官网that was once brimming with Eastern European bars, stores and eateries. Since 1981, when Irena and Zygmunt Zychla bought the restaurant from its owners 鈥 who didn鈥檛 solely focus on just Polish dishes 鈥 the menu has been serving cabbage rolls, sauerkraut and mushroom perogies, veal schnitzel, goulash, and borscht (both red and white) to customers who range from Polish-Torontonians to curious downtown foodies to out-of-town visitors looking for a nostalgic meal.
The space is bright and long, with a bar promoting Polish beer cans situated in the middle of the restaurant, and a large mural of Warsaw taking up most of the brick wall at the back. Framed photos of an illustrated eagle crest, the official coat of arms of Poland, hover above tables hugging the north and south walls. The smell of placek po wegiersku (a folded pancake filled with pork goulash and potatoes) and leczo warzywne (a paprika-heavy beef stew) waft across the dining area.

Sofia Zychla, pictured at the restaurant in 1989.
SuppliedPatrick Front, the 41-year-old grandson of the Zychlas who acts as general manager, says the menu hasn鈥檛 changed much after four decades. 鈥淭hat kind of consistency keeps people coming back, so much so I鈥檝e seen customers who have been regulars bring their kids and introduce them to our food,鈥 he says.
There鈥檚 a savoury richness in the flavour profiles bursting from dishes such as the cabbage rolls, which are nicely complemented with dill, and the white borscht, as it gives off a miso-like aftertaste. The perogies are firm and didn鈥檛 skimp on the fillings, while the sernik cheesecake is light and fluffy, similar to Japanese cheesecake.
The restaurant goes through about 1,000 pounds of potatoes and 350 pounds of beets each week. One unique requirement for employees? They must speak both Polish and English.

A spread of classic Polish dishes served at Caf茅 Polonez, a family-run restaurant in Toronto鈥檚 Roncesvalles neighbourhood.
Nick Lachance 海角社区官网Star鈥淪o many customers are Polish, they expect to communicate in that language, and we鈥檝e been lucky to find some really great staff at the front and back who speak Polish, and in the past few years we have also hired Polish-speaking Ukrainians, some of whom left their country during the conflict with Russia,鈥 says Front.
With such deep roots in Eastern Europe, Caf茅 Polonez鈥檚 reputation gained momentum in the 1980s when Irena Zychla, a newcomer to 海角社区官网from the small Polish town Radom with her husband and daughter Sofia, was hired to work as a cook at the restaurant. Young Sofia took a waitress job. Three months later, the owner offered to sell them the place, and they pooled together their savings, primarily earned from running a tannery business in Poland, and bought the restaurant. Years later, they purchased the building.

Beetroot with dumplings and a bowl of white borscht, two hearty Polish dishes.
Nick Lachance 海角社区官网Star鈥淲e expanded the menu to include more Polish and Eastern European dishes, many of which were my mom鈥檚 own recipes,鈥 says Sofia.
As a teenager, Front got to know how to operate a business by at first helping out as a busboy and then prepping the ingredients and even trying his hand at making perogies. 鈥淏efore we had a machine helping us make them, it can be very labour intensive,鈥 he recalls. Today, Front is busy with sourcing ingredients from vendors, managing staff schedules, and even waiting tables if the restaurants get crowded.
Over the decades, as Roncesvalles established itself as a hub for Polish businesses, Caf茅 Polonez drew in newcomers freshly emigrated from Poland 鈥 a clientele that reflected the character of a neighbourhood once rich with Polish stores, many of which have since disappeared. 鈥淚t鈥檚 gentrification, what can you say?鈥 says Front with a shrug.
Growing demand forced them to renovate 20 years ago by expanding the back area of the space to include more seats, replacing what was then the kitchen. Updated flooring and tables and chairs also gave the restaurant a refreshed look.

Zygmunt Zychla, left, co-owner of Caf茅 Polonez, and his daughter Sofia with Polish then president Lech Walesa during his visit to the restaurant in the early 1990s.
SuppliedThey鈥檝e entertained a range of Polish dignitaries over the years, but most notably to both Front and his grandmother is when Lech Wa艂臋sa, then the Polish president, visited Caf茅 Polonez in the early 1990s. Irena was suffering from a broken hand and didn鈥檛 go downstairs to greet him but instead Walesa and his security guards headed upstairs to gift her some flowers and a sweet compliment. 鈥淗e really loved the tripe soup he had, which has always been a favourite for our customers,鈥 Front says. 鈥淎nd my grandmother was amazed at this gesture.鈥

A potato pancake with traditional fixings, including sour cream and goulash, served at Caf茅 Polonez, a Roncesvalles restaurant known for its Polish comfort food.
Nick Lachance 海角社区官网StarToday, Sofia still runs the restaurant, now with help from her children. 鈥淲e are trying our best to uphold and preserve the legacy that my parents began all those years ago.鈥
Front, when asked about what he finds fulfilling about managing his family business, begins to choke up before he answers, tears welling up in his eyes. 鈥淎 lot of people keep the legacy going from what their grandparents accomplished,鈥 he says, 鈥渨ith totems like paintings and jewelry and, of course, memories. But we have an actual bricks-and-mortar building to say, 鈥楾his is our family, this is our history.鈥欌
To join the conversation set a first and last name in your user profile.
Sign in or register for free to join the Conversation