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Score 95

(Wine Rack, $35.42)

This Champagne-style blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier gleams like sunlight in the glass, while tiny strands of persistent bubbles thread the centre. As those spheres burst on the surface, they release a generous, almost weighty scent of freshly rolled marzipan and homemade apple crisp. Such immediate pleasure. The attack is round and full, fresh and saturated — a dance of caramelized apple, butter croissant, roasted almond, nougat and lemon curd. Long too. This local gem is available at Wine Rack stores throughout Ontario — but is not at the LCBO (13% alc. 6 g/L sugar)

NV Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava Brut Gran Selectión, Spain

Score 91

(LCBO 216945, $17.90)

This popular Cava in the chic black bottle appeals to those who prefer dry, almost savory styles of sparkling wine. A classic blend of Parellada, Macabeo and Xarel-lo grape varieties, each whiff calls to mind cool clay and grapefruit pith before sweeping in with a brisk but balanced entry. Delicate effervescence forms an almost creamy mouthfeel as flavours allude to cool citrus, sliced apple, wet stones and sea spray. Then, a salt and white pepper finish leaves the palate seasoned. Outstanding food wine. (11.5% alc., 8 g/L sugar)

2023 Brilla! Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry, Veneto, Italy

Score 92

(LCBO 32539, $20/3x200 ml)

These single-serve bottles look, feel and taste sophisticated — yet only cost about $6.50 a pop. Think: affordable luxury. The cool wash of elegant refreshment seems to nod and wink toward ripe pear and fresh raspberries, orange zest and violet as racy acidity balances the wine’s airy kiss of sweetness. Just a delight. This wine is a reminder that Prosecco Rosé, which must be vintage-dated and blended with Pinot Noir for colour and complexity, can offer excellent value. Serve in a glass or with just a straw. (11% alc., 14 g/L sugar)

NV Château des Charmes Brut Sparkling Wine Méthode Traditionelle VQA, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Score 92

(Vintages Essential 224766, $32.95)

This blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir comes together beautifully on the nose and palate. The scent is caramelized apples and lemon zest scored with a delicate flintiness. That fragrance leads to vivid rush of luminosity, a beam of light that floods the senses as understated flavours recall crunchy green apple, almond, a shake of pebbles and a crank of sea salt before tapering off with a touch of French lemon tart on the finish. No wonder this wine is always available as a Vintages Essential. (13% alc. 12 g/L sugar)

NV Piper-Heidseick Brut Champagne, France

Score 94

(LCBO 462432, $72)

The thing that strikes you about this Champagne is its harmony — it’s just so seamless. The delicate perfume seems singular at first. Then a closer inspection reveals layers of sweet butter and biscuit, lemon and toasted meringue, even a sprig of spearmint somewhere. Lots to engage the mind. The same is true on the palate. The entry tastes tightly wound — a fistful of flavour that unravels slowly with elements found on the nose. Roasted apple and hazelnut emerge quietly on the finish. (12% alc. 10g/L sugar)

Henkell Dealcoholized Sparkling Wine, Germany

Score 92

(LCBO 19251, $11.95)

All too often, non-alcoholic wine falls flat. That’s not the case with this popular new listing at the LCBO. The fragrance suggests candied lemon zest. The attack is bright and crisp, calling to mind lemon-glazed pound cake with caramelized edges and surprisingly length. Fun fact: Acidity in wine hides sugar, so balance is everything. And this wine nails it. The 59 g/L is completely hidden beneath the acidity, so it tastes lip-smacking and bright — and finishes clean and dry. Well-priced, too. (0.01% alc., 59g/L sugar)