NEW YORK (AP) 鈥 Michael Henry Adams had reached a fashion crossroads by the early 1970s: As bell bottoms and afros became the trend and the look of film figures like John Shaft and 鈥淪uper Fly鈥 became style prototypes, the teenager felt unrepresented.
But a previous trip to the Museum of Modern Art, for its 鈥淗arlem On My Mind鈥 exhibit, had already begun to lay down his fashion foundation.
鈥淲hen I saw those photographs of elegant Harlemites promenading up and down Seventh Avenue and Lennox Avenue ... the raccoon coats and fox coats, and spangled gowns, and bowler hats 鈥 all this satirical splendor ... I thought, 鈥極h! There is another way for me to be authentically Black,鈥欌 recalled the New York-based cultural and architectural historian, now 69.
The style Adams would embrace And dandyism was at the heart of where many of the world’s most famous and influential tastemakers to kick off the 鈥淪uperfine: Tailoring Black Style鈥 exhibit. But Black dandyism isn’t limited to expensive couture 鈥 it’s displayed daily.
鈥淚t鈥檚 everywhere in the Black community, the notion of what a dandy is,鈥 explained Adams, who was photographed for the 鈥淪uperfine鈥 catalog. 鈥淭he ingeniousness and ingenuity and creativity of Black people, so far as fashion was concerned, it鈥檚 always been with us.鈥
As the 鈥 the Costume Institute’s first to exclusively display Black designers 鈥 opens to the public Saturday, here are tips from dandies on embracing the style in everyday life.
Tip 1: Start with confidence
Dandies say the first begins on the inside.
鈥淔ashion鈥檚 a sense of personality. Two guys can go to the same store and get the same outfit and look totally different,鈥 said Guy Wood, 62, the stylish co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery. Inspired by family members and dapper Harlem neighbors, he developed a knack for style early. 鈥淚t鈥檚 confidence ... you walk in the room, and all the heads turn.鈥
Michael Andrew, a 42-year-old Atlanta-based style consultant, first delved into dandyism after being inspired by Fonzworth Bentley, most recognized as Sean 鈥淒iddy鈥 Combs’ often-photographed assistant and umbrella holder in the early 2000s. Bentley’s colorful outfits and tailored outfits separated himself from the hip-hop era’s prevalent baggy look.
鈥淎 lot of guys think that being a dandy is about being over the top,鈥 said Andrew, who was photographed for Rose Callahan’s 2013 book “I Am Dandy: The Return of the Elegant Gentleman.鈥 鈥淔or me, dandyism is the highest form of taste with self-expression.鈥
Tip 2: Opt for the statement pieces
The foundation of dandyism rests upon tenets such as bold colors and fine tailoring, but there鈥檚 no singular way to achieve the look. Each dandy creates their own unique style, often centered on specific elements. For Wood, who refers to crafting looks as making gumbo, it
鈥淲earing a suit, you just feel important,鈥 said Wood, who often pairs them with brogue shoes of various bright colors. 鈥淲e love well-tailored.鈥
James McFarland, an 80-year-old master tailor, says a dandy鈥檚 affinity for tailoring is easy to understand: 鈥淚t鈥檚 very simple: we鈥檙e a visual world. When you wear something that鈥檚 fine tailored and it鈥檚 fitting you well, people look at that.鈥
Known as 鈥淕entleman Jim,鈥 McFarland was tutored by Orie Walls, the go-to Harlem-based tailor of the 1960s. McFarland says they crafted suits for nearly every famous Black male celebrity of the time, from Duke Ellington to Jackie Robinson to Muhammad Ali 鈥 as well as some of the era’s most infamous characters, like gangsters Frank Lucas and Bumpy Johnson. He says wearing a suit 鈥渕akes you feel better. You ever heard the term styling and profiling?鈥
While Adams, the historian, is drawn to bow ties, buck shoes and straw hats, Andrew says the beauty of dandyism is making it your own.
鈥淭exture is the must-have when you start talking about dandyism 鈥 textures and patterns. The great point here is that dandies always have their thing. And so, for me, hats are my thing,鈥 Andrew said, adding that small accessories, like stylish wool or cashmere socks and pocket squares, can easily elevate a look. 鈥淣ow, it鈥檚 starting to become glasses. 鈥 Every dandy has the opportunity to utilize something.鈥
Tip 3: Creativity is worth more than cash
Wood says to becoming a dandy 鈥 not a high income.
鈥淭hat鈥檚 a cheat code,鈥 said Wood. 鈥淚t is being creative 鈥 most of us don鈥檛 have a lot of money. You might go in your mom鈥檚 closet and (think), 鈥極h, that scarf is fly.鈥 You tie it around your neck and lay it over your shoulder. You just can鈥檛 be scared.鈥
Adams says while style and inspiration can go hand-in-hand, individuality should always be paramount.
鈥淧eople should find their truth and aspire to look like themselves,鈥 he said, noting he shops at a variety of stores, from the high-end to like Marshalls and K&G Fashion. 鈥淧art of the thing that made me rebel against looking like 鈥楽uper Fly鈥 or 鈥楽haft鈥 is I didn鈥檛 want to look like everybody else.鈥
Jacques Agbobly, a designer whose clothes are featured in the Met exhibit, agrees.
鈥淭here are people who would really just think it鈥檚 about the suit that you鈥檙e wearing and the top hat 鈥 but for me, and I think that鈥檚 what this exhibition does really fondly, is really putting together a group of amazing clothing that really redefines what dandyism is,鈥 he said. For the Togo-born designer, 鈥渢aking up space is a sort of open-ended thing in a way,鈥 whether it’s achieved through colors, silhouettes or fabric choices.
Tip 4: Avoid the crisis of casualness
A general consensus among dandies is that society has embraced casualness, shunning the of the past.
McFarland, the tailor, says his profession isn鈥檛 as admired or used in U.S. as it was years ago. He teaches fine tailoring as he has for decades, and is planning to start a podcast to discuss the craft and his adventures styling celebrities of his era.
鈥淲hen I grew up, I wanted to look like the people in the neighborhood,鈥 he said, explaining his mother couldn鈥檛 afford the clothes he wanted, leading him to tailoring. 鈥淓verybody, male and female, was dressed up.鈥
Andrew hopes that same believing appearance and pride work together.
鈥淚 would challenge or would encourage all of us, especially as Black people, to remember our history, to remember that we used to throw on our Sunday鈥檚 best,鈥 he said. 鈥淲e wanted to show up as the best versions of ourselves.鈥
The which will run through October, is sure to introduce visitors to the most elevated forms of Black dandyism. But for Wood and fellow daily dandies, it鈥檚 just business as usual.
鈥淭he fact that the Met realizes that is a beautiful thing,鈥 he said with a sly smile. 鈥淏ut we鈥檝e been doing this forever and we really not paying attention to it. We just do it because we love it.鈥
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Follow Associated Press entertainment journalist Gary Gerard Hamilton at @GaryGHamilton on all his social media platforms.
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