This is the Thursday, Feb 20 edition of Food Crawl, the Star鈥檚 weekly food newsletter.听Sign up to get it in your inbox every week.
Liberty Village isn鈥檛 typically seen as a top food destination. Originally a prison site, then a manufacturing hub, today it’s mostly known for its condos and food catering to young professionals, with generic menus that appeal to broad tastes without exactly honing in on one culinary region.听While some say the neighbourhood is a bit lacking in soul, there are gems to be had 鈥 you just have to look a bit closer. From a surprisingly cosy hangout spot to a bangin’ club sandwich, here are four places that will change your perception of Liberty Village.
The Vegan Lentil Soup from
The Vegan Lentil Soup from Liberty Village Market and Cafe.
Karon Liu/海角社区官网StarFor a decade, I’ve passed by this corner cafe on the way to the gym without giving it a second thought. I wished I had stepped in sooner. This soup and sandwich spot is surprisingly spacious, with charmingly mismatched chairs and warm lighting reminiscent of a ’, giving Liberty Village one of the few all-day, affordable hangout spaces the neighbourhood is in desperate need of. The cafe also sells cans of beer if you want a laid-back drink in a non-pub, non-club atmosphere.
The menu features salads, as well as breakfast and deli sandwiches听鈥斕齮hink roast beef, turkey and tuna salad听鈥斕齜ut what I really love is the self-serve station with housemade soups. Options include beef chili, vegan tomato soup, beef barley soup and my favourite, the vegan lentil ($8 for a large bowl). Yellow lentils are simmered to a velvety yet slightly chunky texture with just celery, onions, carrots and vegetable stock. It’s slightly nutty, a bit sweet, with an earthy undertone and the umami from the mirepoix. Pair it with a sandwich,听or enjoy a large bowl for a light yet protein-packed lunch.
Where to get it: Liberty Village Market and Cafe is at 65 Jefferson Ave. at Liberty Street. It is open Monday 7 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.; Tuesday 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday 7 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Saturday 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Sunday 8 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. It is on Uber Eats and Ritual. There is a small flight of stairs to get into the restaurant.
The Bulgogi Club Sandwich from Naomi
The Bulgogi Club Sandwich from Naomi.
Karon Liu/海角社区官网StarOpen since 2005, this little sandwich shop stands out for offering Korean and Japanese dishes such as bibimbap, teriyaki, udon and kimchi fried rice, earning a devout following. Service is extra-friendly, and first-timers are always recommended to try the bulgogi Club, $14. The triple-decker has the requisite crisp lettuce, juicy tomato and crunchy bacon along with American cheese slices and a generous amount of tender bulgogi. The salty-sweet soy complements the tangy mayo, and you can choose whether you want white or whole wheat bread before it’s toasted. There’s a lot going on in every bite, but it’s fusion done right. Skip the fast casual outposts on the east end of Liberty Village and head here for simple, but memorable home-style cooking.
Where to get it: Naomi is at 112 Atlantic Ave. at King Street West. It is open Monday to Friday 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Saturday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. It is not on food apps. Washrooms are down a flight of stairs.
The Cardamom Knot from
The Cardamom Knot from Brodflour.
Karon Liu/海角社区官网StarI recently wrote about this five-year-old flour mill that makes stellar sourdough loaves (if you’re on a buy-Canada kick, you can’t get more local than flour milled in Toronto), but didn’t mention one of their most popular items: the cardamom knot, $4.35. Also known as kardemummabullar, these Swedish sweet buns get an extra oomph from the ground spice. Think strong floral and woody notes (it’s hard to describe cardamom, but it’s like a mixture of pine, pepper, orange and eucalyptus) permeating the soft bread. Baked to a golden brown and topped with sparkling specs of sugar, Brodflour’s version has a stronger cardamom taste and a fluffier texture than others I’ve tried. Pair it with a latte to enhance the sweet cardamom with the bitterness of the coffee. There’s some bench seating at the cafe, but this is mostly a grab-and-go place.
Where to get it: is at 8 Pardee Ave. at Liberty Street. It is open听Monday 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.,听Tuesday to Friday 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.;听Saturday 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; and Sunday 9 a.m. 3 p.m. It is on Uber Eats and Ritual.
The Shak from
Along with the rise of condos in Liberty Village came the boom of brunch culture in the 2000s. When Mildred’s opened in 2009, it became the go-to spot for pancakes on late Sunday mornings. Today, the neighbourhood isn’t short on sit-down brunch spots (School Restaurant, Nodo, Local Public Eatery), but it’s nice to visit the OG, complete with its (now) retro, mid-aughts esthetics. The brunch and lunch menu has the requite pancakes, breakfast salads, housemade burgers and Eggs Benedict, but when it comes to hangover fare I like the Shak, $20.50. Basically their version of shakshuka, it’s topped with feta and has a strong dose of cumin. Rip a piece of the fluffy, lightly grilled pita and scoop up the chunky tomato-sweet pepper mixture that’s spiced with harissa, coriander, cumin and smoked paprika. It’s hearty but won’t weigh you down for the rest of the day.
Where to get it:听 is at 85 Hanna Ave., Unit 104 at King Street West. It is open Monday to Friday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Saturday to Sunday 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. It is not on food apps.
Before you go, I have a few more听recommendations
鈥⑻齏hy line-up for 鈥淣ew York-style鈥 pizza when you can听grab a massive slice of this homegrown classic for just $5?
鈥⑻鼿ere are the best places to eat and drink in Toronto听according to chef Monika Wahba, owner of Maha鈥檚.
鈥⑻鼼et fresh canoli and loaves of bread听at this beloved Italian bakery on the Danforth.
鈥⑻This 海角社区官网restaurant听is keeping the 鈥渄ying art鈥 of Chinese barbecue alive.
鈥⑻鼴ack on campus?听Here are four places to grab a bite between study breaks.
鈥⑻鼼et a warm bowl of ajiaco at this听charming Colombian spot to cure to the winter blues.
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